All posts by Bad Historian

The History Behind the Mystery: The Devil’s Half Mile

by Paddy Hirsch

Journey back to New York City in the days in which our nation was a young country, still finding its way—before The Alienist, before Gangs of New York… where the Wall Street as we know it was today was dubbed THE DEVIL’S HALF MILE.

With a strong background in financial journalism, author Paddy Hirsch spins a gripping and suspenseful tale in the very real early days of our nation. A longtime economic journalist and producer Paddy Hirsch began researching the history of the stock market and beginnings of its regulation but ended up swept into the fascinating time period he discovered. Hirsch turned his research into a page-turning new novel of suspense. The Devil’s Half Mile brings together the actual historic settings and people of 1799 New York, including Alexander Hamilton, William Duer, and more—along with a twisty murder mystery. Watch the videos below for more of the history behind this mystery from the author himself.

Paddy Hirsch on “The Wild Days of Early Wall Street”

Paddy Hirsch on “Surprising New York History”


PADDY HIRSCH has worked in public radio at NPR and Marketplace as a journalist and producer for ten years. He came to journalism after serving for eight years as an officer in the British Royal Marines, and lives in Los Angeles. The author of a nonfiction book explaining economics, Man vs. Markets, The Devil’s Half Mile is his fiction debut. Visit him online at www.paddyhirsch.com or follow him @paddyhirsch.

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The Flatiron: A Landmark Signaling a New Era

by Alice Sparberg Alexiou

Critics hated it. The public feared it would topple over. Passersby were knocked down by the winds. But even before it was completed, the Flatiron Building had become an unforgettable part of New York City.

A series of images chronicling the construction of the Flatiron Building, from the New York Times photo archive, credited to the Library of Congress. Image is in the public domain via Wikipedia.

The Flatiron Building was built by the Chicago-based Fuller Company–a group founded by George Fuller, “the father of the skyscraper”–to be their New York headquarters. The company’s president, Harry Black, was never able to make the public call the Flatiron the Fuller Building, however. Black’s was the country’s largest real estate firm, constructing Macy’s department store, and soon after the Plaza Hotel, the Savoy Hotel, and many other iconic buildings in New York as well as in other cities across the country. With an ostentatious lifestyle that drew constant media scrutiny, Black made a fortune only to meet a tragic, untimely end.

In The Flatiron, Alice Sparberg Alexiou chronicles not just the story of the building but the heady times in New York at the dawn of the twentieth century. It was a time when Madison Square Park shifted from a promenade for rich women to one for gay prostitutes; when photography became an art; motion pictures came into existence; the booming economy suffered increasing depressions; jazz came to the forefront of popular music–and all within steps of one of the city’s best-known and best-loved buildings. Keep reading for an excerpt of The Flatiron.

* * * * *

What a clever simile, of a Flatiron building rolling along the sidewalk! How apt, and how iconic! It was precisely the Flatiron’s fluid nature—from every angle, it looked different—that made people love it so. The building embodied New York, where every day people arrived from across the sea, or from the farms of rural America, swelling the city’s population, and continuously remaking the city into something else, that kept evolving with each successive wave of new immigrants. New York, the Evening Post had recently declared, was a “fluid city.” It had not yet been able to settle down, either industrially or socially. New York as yet had no zoning laws—the first would be enacted in 1916—which meant that any quarter could change suddenly into something else entirely.

The Flatiron Building (Fuller Building) in Manhattan, New York City c.1903. Image is in the public domain via Wikipedia.

Change was the essence of New York, and the Flatiron was part of that change. It looked different from any other skyscraper. If you were walking toward it on Twenty-third Street, going west, it seemed like Schuyler’s huge theatrical screen, rising straight up in front of you. If you were north of the building, on Fifth Avenue or Broadway, the Flatiron appeared to be moving towards you, like a big ship. Perhaps you would imagine that it had just arrived from Europe, filled with immigrants, plowed right through the harbor and was now continuing its journey, on land, uptown. “It’s just like a great wedge of strawberry shortcake, with windows for berries,” one young girl was overheard saying. “A tall thin wedge of a building, for all the world like a slice of a gigantic layer cake, a boarding house slice, very thin and tapering,” wrote The Brooklyn Eagle. A Times reporter, watching a man walking down Fifth Avenue with his girl, heard him trying to persuade her that the Flatiron Building was architecturally superior to L’Arc de Triomphe on the Champs-Elysées, and just as beautiful as the Washington Monument on the Potomac. Nonsense, she replied; to her, it resembled a clothespin that fastened Fifth Avenue and Broadway jointly onto the clothesline of Twenty-third Street. Her boyfriend replied: “Granted its scale, it is architecturally well designed. It will be to the travelers on the two great highways of our metropolis a column of smoke by day, and by night, when the interior is lighted, a constellation of fires.” She said, “The Flatiron will probably be used to advertise electrically a patent for weak backs and sore feet.” “But there is something spirited and commanding in it,” persisted the young fellow. “It gives an accent to the vista of two great thoroughfares.”

“But the accent,” his girlfriend said, “is so very American.”

That remark, the reporter later commented in his article, “was taken as a complete justification of the Flatiron Building, for what greater virtue can native architecture have than to be conceived and executed in the native vernacular?”

Real Estate Record and Builders’ Guide, applauding the current and unprecedented popular interest in architecture caused by the Flatiron Building, wrote: “No amount of approval or disapproval on the part of a few interested and competent people can compensate for the (up-to-now) widespread lack of interest in architecture. An architect’s design must appeal to a lot of people, not just the elite. And this can only have a good effect on popular taste. No art can be thoroughly wholesome in a democracy that has not a good basis in popular taste.”


ALICE SPARBERG ALEXIOU is the author of Jane Jacobs: Urban Visionary. She has been an editor of Lilith magazine and written for The New York Times and Newsday, among others. She is a graduate of Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism and has a Ph.D. in classics from Fordham University. She lives in New York.

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Madame Claude: Her Secret World of Pleasure, Privilege, and Power

by William Stadiem

In post-WWII Paris, Madame Claude ran the most exclusive finishing school in the world. Her alumnae married more fortunes, titles and famous names than any of the Seven Sisters. The names on her client list were epic—Kennedy, Rothschild, Agnelli, Onassis, Niarchos, Brando, Sinatra, McQueen, Picasso, Chagall, Qaddafi, the Shah, and that’s just for starters. By the 1950s, she was the richest and most celebrated self-made woman in Europe, as much of a legend as Coco Chanel.

Born Fernande Grudet, a poor Jewish girl in the aristocratic chateau city of Angers, the future Madame led a life of high adventure—resistance fighter, concentration camp survivor, gun moll of the Corsican Mafia and erstwhile streetwalker—before becoming the ultimate broker between beauty and power. She harnessed the emerging postwar technology of the telephone to create the concept of the call girl. But Madame Claude wasn’t just selling sex—she was the world’s ultimate matchmaker, the Dolly Levi of the Power Elite.

She was also one of the most controversial—and most wanted—women in the world. Now, through his own conversations with the woman herself and interviews with the great men and remarkable women on whom she built her empire, social historian and biographer William Stadiem pierces the veil of Claude’s secret, forbidden universe of pleasure and privilege. Keep reading for an adapted excerpt of Madame Claude.

Introductory French

Camelot was coming to Paris. It was their first official European tour, and the First Couple couldn’t have been more excited. While Jackie Kennedy was thrilled to be meeting one of her literary idols, the new French minister of culture, André Malraux (Man’s Fate), who was going to give her a special tour of the Louvre, the person John Kennedy may have been thinking the most about was Madame Claude, who was going to provide JFK with her own take on man’s fate. It was a rendezvous with destiny that the new president had been plotting for weeks.

Catering to the erotic whims of a visiting president was dollar diplomacy on the most delicate and demanding level. It was also a logistical nightmare, given that the eyes of the world were on the new president and his lovely wife in the first manifestation of her Francophile icon-hood. That JFK could be caught with his pants down on a state visit was a possibility that couldn’t even be contemplated. However, John Kennedy was so obsessed with sex, and so bold and reckless in his obsessions, possessing his father’s arrogance that the right kind of bad boy could get away with everything, that JFK forged ahead in strategizing his French sexcapade as if it were a priapic D-day.

Most of the preliminary planning was done between Madame Claude herself and Pierre Salinger, Kennedy’s trusted press secretary, who, despite so many assumptions, was only half French (his mother) and had grown up and been educated in San Francisco. Still, he was fluent in French; plus, he shared his boss’s penchant for naughtiness. So the assignment was literally a labor of love. At first, Madame Claude turned Salinger down. There were too many things that could go wrong and too much attention on the prospective client, arguably the most famous man on earth.

Claude was relatively new in the business, and the last thing she needed was a scandal on the front pages of the world press. Most of her clients came from show business, industry, and finance; she had few contacts at this point with the French government. If they could shut down the mighty Le One-Two-Two or the iconic Sphinx, they could shut down her little operation like swatting a fly and ship her off to Fleury-Mérogis, the brutal Alcatraz of la belle France, where bad madams went to die. Claude was doing fine. Why risk losing it all?

Salinger, a born salesman, turned all the negatives into positives. The French loved sex as much as they loved the privacy of their dalliances. They would avert their eyes. And, Salinger pressed, if Madame Claude could service President Kennedy, she would become a “made woman,” capable of taking care of all the top men in every country. This was the stuff myths were made of. Would Maxim’s have feared to serve Curnonsky, the “Prince of Gastronomes,” the ultimate gourmet of the twentieth century? Rise to the occasion, Salinger exhorted Claude. Do it for your career. Do it for your country, he riffed, paraphrasing JFK’s inaugural address. Think big! Weighing risks and rewards like the shrewd banker she might have otherwise been, Claude decided to go for it.

Of course, there was no such thing as “an easy lay,” even where Madame Claude was concerned. To begin with, the trip to Europe soon mushroomed into a huge geopolitical event. It also mushroomed into a family vacation. Because Paris had a glamour that few women can resist, Jackie’s sister, Lee Radziwill, insisted on tagging along, as did Jack’s mother, Rose, and sister Eunice, Jackie’s two secretaries, Tish Baldridge and Pam Turnure (JFK’s ex-secretary and reputed ad hoc mistress), as well as Jackie’s friend Tony Bradlee, wife of The Washington Post’s Ben, who was covering the trip. Ben’s sister, the pot-smoking artist Mary Meyer, was already flirting with JFK back in Washington and would soon begin a series of White House trysts with him.

Too many women, Joe Kennedy concluded, and he opted to stay home. How his son would figure out a way to add still another Jackiesque filly to his stable while in the glare of the world’s spotlights was beyond him. However, Joe was all for such Flying Wallenda tightrope feats and, if consulted, would surely have urged his son to go for it. Meanwhile, primed by his confidant Igor Cassini about the wonders of Paris’s new supermadam, Joe himself began planning his next French excursion with her firmly in mind.

Settling in to their state apartment for visiting dignitaries at the quai d’Orsay, Jack felt trapped. How in the hell was he ever going to get to Madame Claude and cheat on a wife who had instantly become the hottest thing to hit France since Brigitte Bardot took off her bikini top in And God Created Woman? It was no problem to fight with that wife. Their initial presidential spat was that Jackie was way too French for America’s good, and good image. This was many decades before “freedom fries” and the Francophobia occasioned by France’s rejection of the war in Iraq. Still, America and France had major differences, particularly over NATO, nuclear weapons, and the coveted oil of Algeria, which de Gaulle was willing to give its independence, an act that many Americans feared would throw it, like Nasser’s Egypt, into the open arms of Soviet Russia. Jackie’s flaunting of her Frenchness seemed to Jack like sleeping with the enemy, even though it was he who was dead set on doing so.

Their battle focused on a dress. The second night in Paris was the highlight of the entire trip, a candlelit multicourse champagne dinner for 150 in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, followed by a performance of the ballet of the Paris Opéra in a theater built by Louis XV. Even for JFK, who loved a big bash, especially one with this much deep décolletage, the event seemed a little too “let them eat cake” for the Americans back home who would be reading about the ball in Life magazine. Jackie, he insisted, had to stand up a little for America by wearing her Oleg Cassini dress.

Never mind that Oleg Cassini was a Russian and the dress was a knockoff of a design by Jackie’s favorite French couturier, Hubert de Givenchy. It was still an American dress, and Jack wanted her to flaunt it for the old red, white, and blue. But Jackie, perhaps emboldened by Jacobson’s frequent injections, quietly staged her own war of independence and insisted on wearing her Givenchy rhinestone-studded white satin extravaganza, which she secretly had taken with her, to the palace of the Roi Soleil.

Photo portrait of John F. Kennedy, President of the United States. Image is in the public domain via Wikipedia.

Jack wasn’t being overly sensitive or overreacting to Jackie’s obsession with all things French. A group of French women reporters, knowing her fascination with Givenchy, asked her if she were planning a visit to his atelier. Jackie snapped back, “I have more important things to do.” And when a reporter from Women’s Wear Daily, which had taken a gadfly approach to Jackie’s lavish expenditures on her wardrobe, asked her if she read that fashion journal, she snapped once again, “I try not to anymore.” A final question from the press corps was whether she would buy a French dress for Caroline, then three. Jackie said a terse “No,” after which the reporter followed up with “Was it forbidden?” “No, it’s not forbidden,” Jackie snapped again. “I just don’t have time.”

If clothes were Jackie’s “thing,” sex was Jack’s. Because Madame Claude’s essence was the telephone (her greeting, “Allô, oui,” would become part of the French culture), Pierre Salinger was continually on the line to Claude, juggling the time of the rendezvous, which could be no more than one hour. Kennedy and Salinger had their own code for the transaction, which involved buying for Jackie a gift saddle from Hermès, the famed store, which had become a fashion status symbol for the rich and famous. Claude played right along, asking if the jockey (her simulacrum “Zhack-ee”) had any need for riding crops, whips, or spurs.

The girl Claude had lined up was a twenty-three-year-old Sorbonne graduate from a poor but tony family of Normandy’s lesser nobility. She was a trusted two-year veteran, whose older sister also worked for Claude, sometimes selling herself to the same men she had sold jewels to for their wives while working days at Harry Winston on Avenue Montaigne. JFK’s blind date was a very Jackie-like sylph who was employed as a fitting model for Givenchy himself, and thus was in the perfect position to be decked out in samples of the designer couture that Jack had wanted his wife to eschew, for the glory of Old Glory.

And what was in it for the model? The thrill of meeting the president? The notion that she was representing la gloire de La France? The large fee? Most of Claude’s girls weren’t in it for the money. If they were, they didn’t stay for long. Claude’s was a sort of finishing school for superbeauties. They would be meeting the most important men in France, and, case in point, the world. A lot of these men weren’t married. The goal Claude instilled in all of her charges was that beautiful women deserved to marry beautifully. Claude was in many ways an old-fashioned matchmaker with a modern, direct approach to cutting through the archaic courtship rituals. Her amazing track record of beaux mariages in the decades ahead was testament to her own vision and her finesse and her brilliance as matchmaker to the rich, titled, and famous.

Because Salinger had been filling Claude in with the continuing “America First” psychodrama, the idea to turn the encounter into a French version of Hitchcock’s Vertigo, in which James Stewart obsessively remakes Kim Novak into a fake image she had herself concocted as part of a scam, was Madame’s idea, not the president’s. Pierre Salinger was sure it would have the desired effect. JFK was known for the “quick in-and-out,” but, as a man of wit and taste, he liked his quickies with a liberal dash of imagination and inspiration. Madame Claude, who would in time become a sort of Dr. Ruth, if not Dr. Spock, in the psychology of sex, understood the relationship of hostility and eros, of frustration and arousal. Dressing her damsel in Givenchy was waving a red cape at a bull; the bull was sure to charge, as was the president.


William Stadiem is the author of such bestsellers as Mr. S: My Life with Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe Confidential, and Dear Senator: A Memoir by the Daughter of Strom Thurmond. He writes for Vanity Fair and has been the Hollywood columnist for Andy Warhol’s Interview and the restaurant critic for Los Angeles Magazine. Stadiem is also a screenwriter whose credits include Elizabeth Taylor’s last starring vehicle, Franco Zeffirelli’s Young Toscanini, and the television series L.A. Law.

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The Winegrowing Region of Saale-Unstrut in the Middle Ages

Numerous small springs and other water sources feed the rivers Saale and Unstrut before they confluence with the Elbe. Along these river valleys, the hilly countryside is still fit for winegrowing while the fertile flat land along the rivers offers excellent agricultural possibilities.

The Saale-Unstrut region lies in between the confluence of the rivers Saale and Unstrut in a hilly and steep countryside with a thousand-year-old tradition for winegrowing. This made it until recently, the northern-most winegrowing region in Germany.

The River Unstrut near the village of Burgscheidungen. Source: Wikipedia/Dgunendel
Rudelsberg und saaleck in the Saale-Unstrut Region. Source: Wikipedia
Schweigenberg near Freyburg. Source: Wikipedia

Vineyards

Though it is believed wine was grown from the 7th century, the earliest exploitation of the steep hillsides for viticulture is documented for the 10thcentury. More precisely, a donation from )98 to the monastery in Memleben lists seven locations where vineyards were cultivated. Unfortunately, the hillsides with their terraces are not workable with heavy machinery, and in recent years the landscape is marred by abandoned vineyards and loss of biodiversity. Also, the traditional dry walls bordering the terraces have been left crumbling.

Although some sites – e. g. the Kathert Vineyard in Karsdorf – have been preserved as part of the regions cultural heritage, much has been lost. The traditional wine cabins, which housed the vineyard guards when the grapes were ripe, have also been lost.

Castles and Monasteries

Another natural feature, the abundant limestones and red sandstone provided building material for the Romanesque architecture, which continue to plays such a visible role in the landscape of the region.

SOURCE:

The Saale-Unstrut cultural landscape corridor
By M. Hoppert, B. Bahn, E. Bergmeier, M. Deutsch, K. Epperlein, C. Hallmann, A. Müller, T. V. Platz, T. Reeh, H. Stück, W. Wedekind. Siegesmund
In: Environmental Earth Sciences, February 2018, 77:58

READ MORE:

Natur Stein Kultur Wein: Zwischen Saale und Unstrut
By Siegfried Siegesmund Michael Hoppert and Klaus Epperlein (Ed).
Mitteldeutscher Verlag 2014

 

The post The Winegrowing Region of Saale-Unstrut in the Middle Ages appeared first on Medieval Histories.

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No more Icelandic or Old Norse at University of Copenhagen

From 2019, the University of Copenhagen will no longer offer courses for students in Old Danish, Norse, modern Icelandic, and Faroese. The reason is that the elective courses in Norse, as well as the other languages, have not been able to muster the required minimum of 30 students, set as a standard by the Chancellors office.

For 2019, the University of Copenhagen has been required by the Danish Government to cut the budget with 160 mills. DKR. Apart from weeding small subjects from the curriculum – like e.g. art- and cultural history – this has led to a general requirement: courses offered has to be able to muster at least 30 students. Recently, it was revealed that the University would no longer offer courses in such old and venerated subjects as Norse, Modern Icelandic, Faroese, and Old Danish. As numerous scholars have pointed out, this will be the end of not only a golden era but also endanger recruitment of the necessary “nerds” to people such venerable institutions as The Arnamagnæan Institute in the future. The Arnamagnæan holds the largest collection of old Icelandic manuscripts outside of Iceland and has been at the centre of Norse research since the 18thcentury. The Arnamagnæan Institute’s chief function is to preserve and further the study of the manuscripts in the Arnamagnæan collection, in accordance with the terms of the Arnamagnæan Foundation, established in 1760. The collection, which comprises some 3000 items, is now divided between Copenhagen and Reykjavík. In 2009 the collection was added to UNESCO’s Memory of the World Register in recognition of its historical value.

Also, future recruitment to large projects like “The Danish Dictionary” and its subsidiaries like “Gammeldansk Ordbog“ (Old Danish Dictionary) is threatened.

It may be a tactical manoeuvre. Already, the Associate Dean, Jens Erik Mogensen, has been hinting at the possibility that the courses will be re-established if government funding can be found.

– I will fight to get a grant for the small language subjects, which will not otherwise be financially feasible, says the Jens-Erik Mogensen to the University Paper, adding that: – Many of them are actually research subjects, where it does not make sense to talk about a wider labour market or a large number of student admissions, so they are different.

At the strategic level, it is nevertheless, quite tasteless. The subjects not only belong to a group of smaller languages, which have been threatened for years. They represent a vastly significant immaterial heritage of not only national Danish and Scandinavian value, but also with a recognised global standing. We live at a time when media corporations produce global series (e.g. Vikings) and games (e.g. Hellblade), which resonate among countless youngsters, while people, in general, participate in cultural tourism exploring the many sites of “Viking” importance. Who is going to help these people to a better and more fulfilling experience, when no one can any longer read the sagas, the laws and the poetry, which are the texts offering the context for historians and archaeologists, and more amateurish re-enactors?

The University of Copenhagen full well knows that the government is bound to step up. The political landscape offers no backdoor.

Thus, the formulated plans reveal nothing but a feeble will to save at least some of the threatened subjects, currently under review. Others will not be as lucky. Nor will the students, who will never experience the joy of studying at a university, because it has been reduced to a factory with no less than at a minimum 30 students in classes. No tutoring in small groups. On the other hand: for a long time it has been uphill to teach students that “studying at a university” is not the same as “going to school”!

SOURCE

Det er slut med at læse dansk på KU.
By Nanna Balslev
In: Uniavisen 24.05.2018

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Rock-Carved Churches in France

Remains of rock-hewn churches may be found in several European and Middle-Eastern landscapes, where natural caves and calciferous rocks invited hermits to shelter in solitude and prayer. In France, such churches were common in Aquitaine.

Full alike of dignity and courtesy, Martin of Tours kept up the position of a bishop properly, yet in such a way as not to lay aside the objects and virtues of a monk. Accordingly, he made use, for some time, of the cell connected with the church but afterwards, when he felt it impossible to tolerate the disturbance caused by the numbers of those visiting it, he established a monastery for himself about two miles outside the city. This spot was so secret and retired that he enjoyed in it the solitude of a hermit. For, on one side, it was surrounded by a precipitous rock of a lofty mountain, while the river Loire had shut in the rest of the plain by a bay extending back for a little distance; and the place could be approached only by one, and that a very narrow passage. Here, then, he possessed a cell constructed of wood. Many also of the brethren had, in the same manner, fashioned retreats for themselves, but most of them had formed these out of the rock of the overhanging mountain, hollowed into caves. There were altogether eighty disciples, who were being disciplined after the example of the saintly master. No one there had anything, which was called his own; all things were possessed in common. It was not allowed either to buy or to sell anything, as is the custom among most monks. No art was practised there, except that of transcribers, and even this was assigned to the brethren of younger years, while the elders spent their time in prayer. Rarely did any one of them go beyond the cell, unless when they assembled at the place of prayer. They all took their food together, after the hour of fasting was passed. No one used wine, except when illness compelled them to do so. Most of them were clothed in garments of camels’ hair. Any dress approaching softness was there deemed criminal, and this must be thought the more remarkable because many among them were such as are deemed of noble rank.
Sulpicius, Vita, X – translation from Sulpicius Severus: On the Life of St. Martin. Translation and Notes by Alexander Roberts. In A Select Library of Nicene and Post-Nicene Fathers of the Christian Church, New York, 1894.

Marmoutiers at Tours. Source: Wikipedia
Marmoutiers at Tours. Source: Wikipedia

This description of the early Abbey at Marmoutiers near Tours founded in 371 helps us to understand the background for the rock-carved churches, which may still be visited in France. Albeit the Abbey began as a hermitage for St. Martin of Tours and his followers and was said to be primarily infused by the spirit of the “solitude of the desert”, it soon became a memorial shrine and a pilgrimage site. This may have taken off when the bishop of Volusianus of Tours constructed a rock-carved church, dedicated to St. John. Also, it appears, there was an ancient bridge across the Loire, built in the 1stcentury AD, which provided easy communion between the town and the abbey.

The exact layout of the Marmoutier of St. Martin of Tours is not known. Archaeological excavations, though, have shown a continued residence since late Antiquity.

Elsewhere, though, remains of similar hermitages, which were later turned into churches, pilgrimage centres and monasteries demonstrate the importance of these rock sanctuaries in late Antiquity. Albeit the exact date of these monuments escapes medieval historians, they nevertheless seem to offer an identical historical background. Asceticism continued to be en vogue and hermits continued to settle near local villages and settlements until the 12thcentury. Although in principle, solitaries, hermits tended to draw crowds of followers and admirers, and it is likely, this led to the diverse character of these places: some continued to be chapels in the wilderness, others turned into lively monastic centres. The three best preserved monolithic churches preserved can be found in the Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, Saint-Emilion and Gurat.

Aubeterre-sur-Dronne

Aubeterre -sur-Dronne. Source: wikipedia
Aubeterre -sur-Dronne. Source: wikipedia

One of the earliest preserved cave-churches in France stems from the early Middle Ages. For centuries, it was inaccessible due to a rock fall. Great was the amazement when it was rediscovered in the 50s. The sheer scale of the structure astounds any visitors. The height soars 27 metres, while the church measures 20 x 16 metres and includes a vestibule, a nave, a baptismal font, octagonal columns, a gallery and a precious reliquary carved as a replica of the holy sepulchre in Jerusalem.

The baptismal font is especially important since it was carved out of the rock in the form of a Greek cross, which dates it to the 4th– 9thcenturies. Also, at the end of the nave, a necropolis has been excavated which can be dated to late antiquity. However, the Romanesque church as it stands today reflects a construction from the 12thcentury. The splendid stone reliquary was originally created to house relics, which were brought home from Jerusalem by Pierre II de Castillon, crusader and lord of the castle in Aubeterre. These relics secured Aubeterre a slot on the pilgrimage route to Santiago.

The soaring height is marked out by the existence of the high gallery or triforium, which can be accessed by a staircase cut out of the rock. This gallery also served as an entrance to the church from above.

In Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is also a Romanesque church, the church of St Jacques which was also built to welcome pilgrims on the route to Santiago de Compostela. This has a wonderful 12th-century Romanesque facade with Moorish influence. It shows finely carved arches and some crumbling, yet gorgeous carvings on the capitals. The facade has a strong Moorish influence. The rest of the church was destroyed in the religious wars of the 16thcentury, and today only the facade remains. A walk up to the church following a dinner in the village is highly recommended

Aubeterre is built up from the river Dronne, offering a superb vista and the charm of being considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. At the foot of the village, where the meadows meet the River Dronne, are to be found a river beach and restaurant.

The Monolithic Church of Saint-Emilion

Church in Saint-Emilion. Source: Wikipedia
Church in Saint-Emilion. Source: Wikipedia

Saint-Emilion is, of course, best known for its vineyards, listed as UNESCO World Heritage in 1999. But it is also a charming medieval village housing the largest of the preserved rock-hewn churches, Saint Emilion. Carved out of limestone in the 12thcentury, it measures 38 in the length and is 12 meters high. Above ground a 53-meter high bell-tower raises. Also, the main entrance is fronted with an impressive gothic portal. Its three naves, with a small crypt beneath, is dedicated to Emillon, an 8thcentury Breton monk, who fled to escape persecution by the Benedictine Order. According to legend, he had been accused of theft. This led him on a long pilgrimage until he finally ended up in what later became the town named after him. Emillon, who adopted an eremitic existence, lived in a cave and was said to perform miracles. Later, he attracted a following of monks. Afterwards, the town acquired wealth and prominence due to its wine production and to its strategic position along a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela.

In 1996 the edifice was severely threatened by water seeping in, undermining the bell-tower and closing off the monument for visitors. Recently though, restoration was finalized and the church was once more open for visitors. During the restoration, archaeologists found drainpipes, which had been installed by the monks to lead off the rainwater.

Next, to the church, a passage leads through the tourist office into the subterranean catacombs, where burial niches had been dug directly into the rock. Also, a passage through the Chapelle de la Trinité leads to what was later claimed to be the actual hermitage of Emillion.

Gurat –  a monolithic church from the later Middle Ages

Entrance to rock-Hewn church at Gurat in Charente. Source: wikipedia
Entrance to rock-Hewn church at Gurat in Charente. Source: wikipedia

Located on a ridge overlooking the Lizonne valley through which the small river of Ronsenac runs below, visitors have to descend below the village of Gurat to enter the monolithic church. Moving inside, a series of seven grottos open up as well as the cave church itself. The entrance is through a passageway into an aisle, which measures 12 x 3,4 metres. With a height of 4,4 metres, it is fitted with an apse. The aisle is separated from the nave by two columns, hewn out of the rock and leading up to an apse-like structure, which probably held the remains of the founder of the church. Light streams from a small round window in the apsidal end of the aisle.

In 1967, Michael Gervers suggested that the church was constructed on a site containing numerous grottos, which had been “formed naturally by water erosion” and that a hermit at some point took up residence there. At some point, a community grew up around a hermit, which led to the construction of the cave church in the 13thcentury. Coin-finds and C14 dating have indicated that the church was last used as a shelter during the religious wars.

Recently, a study carried out by Jacqueline Meijer of the remains of 18 individuals buried outside the entrance of the cave has shown that it probably functioned as a monastic hostel. Based on strontium isotope analysis It was concluded that the eighteen individuals were born elsewhere but on average had lived at least five years at Gurat.

Recently, the cave church at Gurat was acquired by the village, which intends to restore it as a tourist venue. Until the 60s it was used as the village dump.

SOURCES:

The Cave Church at Gurat (Charente). Preliminary report
By Michael Gervers
In: Gesta, Vol 6,  1967

Exploring the Origins and Mobility of the Medieval Monastic Inhabitants of a Cave Church in Gurat, France, Using Strontium Isotope Analysis.
By Jacqueline Meijer
Unpublished thesis presented to the University of Waterloo, Master of Arts in Public Issues Anthropology.
Waterloo 2018

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Fighting for Israel, Searching for Peace

by Ehud Barak

In the summer of 2000, the most decorated soldier in Israel’s history—Ehud Barak—set himself a challenge as daunting as any he had faced on the battlefield: to secure a final peace with the Palestinians. He would propose two states for two peoples, with a shared capital in Jerusalem. He knew the risks of failure. But he also knew the risks of not trying: letting slip perhaps the last chance for a generation to secure genuine peace.

It was a moment of truth.

It was one of many in a life intertwined, from the start, with that of Israel. Born on a kibbutz, Barak became commander of Israel’s elite special forces, then army Chief of Staff, and ultimately, Prime Minister.

My Country, My Life tells the unvarnished story of his—and his country’s—first seven decades; of its major successes, but also its setbacks and misjudgments. He offers candid assessments of his fellow Israeli politicians, of the American administrations with which he worked, and of himself. Drawing on his experiences as a military and political leader, he sounds a powerful warning: Israel is at a crossroads, threatened by events beyond its borders and by divisions within. The two-state solution is more urgent than ever, not just for the Palestinians, but for the existential interests of Israel itself. Only by rediscovering the twin pillars on which it was built—military strength and moral purpose—can Israel thrive. Keep reading for an excerpt of Ehud Barak’s definitive memoir.

Kibbutz Roots

I am an Israeli. But I was born in British-ruled Palestine, on a fledgling kibbutz: a cluster of wood-and-tar-paper huts amid a few orange groves and vegetable fields and chicken coops. It was just across the road from an Arab village named Wadi Khawaret, whose residents fled in the weeks before the establishment of the State of Israel, when I was six years old.

As prime minister half a century later, during my stubborn yet ultimately fruitless drive to secure a final peace treaty with Yasir Arafat, there were media suggestions that my childhood years gave me a personal understanding of the pasts of both our peoples, Jews and Arabs, in the land that each saw as its own. But that is in some ways misleading. Yes, I did know firsthand that we were not alone in our ancestral homeland. At no point in my childhood was I ever taught to hate the Arabs. I never did hate them, even when, in my years defending the security of Israel, I had to fight, and defeat, them. But my conviction that they, too, needed the opportunity to establish a state came only later, after my many years in uniform—especially when, as deputy chief of staff under Yitzhak Rabin, Israel faced a violent uprising in the West Bank and Gaza that became the first intifada. And while my determination as prime minister to find a negotiated resolution to our conflict was in part based on a recognition of the Palestinian Arabs’ national aspirations, the main impulse was my belief that such a compromise was profoundly in the interest of Israel, whose existence I had spent decades defending on the battlefield and which I was ultimately elected to lead.

Zionism, the political platform for the establishment of a Jewish state, emerged in the late 1800s in response to a brutal reality. That, too, was a part of my own family’s story. Most of the world’s Jews, who lived in the Russian empire and Poland, were trapped in a vise of poverty, powerlessness, and anti-Semitic violence. Even in the democracies of Western Europe, Jews were not necessarily secure. Theodor Herzl, a largely assimilated Jew in Vienna, published the foundational text of Zionism in 1896. It was called Der Judenstaat. “Jews have sincerely tried everywhere to merge with the national communities in which we live, seeking only to preserve the faith of our fathers,” he wrote. “In vain are we loyal patriots, sometimes super-loyal. In vain do we make the same sacrifices of life and property as our fellow citizens … In our native lands where we have lived for centuries, we are still decried as aliens.” Zionism’s answer was the establishment of a state of our own, in which we could achieve the self-determination and security denied to us elsewhere.

During the 1890s and the early years of the new century, more than a million Jews fled Eastern Europe, but mostly for America. It was only in the 1920s and 1930s that significant numbers arrived in Palestine. Then, within a few years, Hitler rose to power in Germany. The Jews of Europe faced not just discrimination and pogroms. They were systematically, industrially murdered. From 1939 until early 1942, when I was born, nearly 2 million Jews were killed. Six million would die by the end of the war. Almost the whole world, including the United States, rejected pleas to provide a haven for those who might have been saved. Even after Hitler was defeated, the British shut the doors of Palestine to those who had somehow survived.

* * *

I was three when the Holocaust ended. Three years later Israel was established, in May 1948, and neighboring Arab states sent in their armies to try to snuff the state out in its infancy. It would be some years before I fully realized that this first Arab-Israeli war was the start of an essential tension in my country’s life, and my own: between the Jewish ethical ideals at the core of Zionism and the reality of our having to fight, and sometimes even kill, in order to secure, establish, and safeguard our state. Yet even as a small child, I was keenly aware of the historic events swirling around me.

Mishmar Hasharon, the hamlet north of Tel Aviv where I spent the first seventeen years of my life, was one of the early kibbutzim. These collective farming settlements had their roots in Herzl’s view that an avant-garde of “pioneers” would need to settle a homeland that was still economically undeveloped, and where even farming was difficult. Members of Jewish youth groups from Eastern Europe, among them my mother, provided most of the pioneers, drawing inspiration not just from Zionism but from the still untainted collectivist ideals represented by the triumph of Communism over the czars in Russia.

It is hard for people who didn’t live through that time to understand the mind-set of the kibbutzniks. They had higher aspirations than simply planting the seeds of a future state. They wanted to be part of transforming what it meant to be a Jew. The act of first taming, and then farming, the soil of Palestine was not just an economic imperative. It was seen as deeply symbolic of Jews finally taking control of their own destiny. It was a message that took on an even greater power and poignancy after the mass murder of the Jews of Europe during the Holocaust.
Even for many Israelis nowadays, the physical challenges and the all-consuming collectivism of life on an early kibbutz are hard to imagine. Among the few dozen families in Mishmar Hasharon when I was born, there was no private property. Everything was communally owned and allocated. Every penny—or Israeli pound—earned from what we produced went into a communal kitty, from which each one of the seventy-or-so families got a small weekly allowance. By “small,” I mean tiny. For my parents and others, even the idea of an ice cream cone for their children was a matter of keen financial planning. More often, they would save each weekly pittance with the aim of pooling them at birthday time, when they might stretch to the price of a picture book, or a small toy.

Decisions on any issue of importance were taken at the aseifa, the weekly meeting of kibbutz members held on Saturday nights in our dining hall. The agenda would be tacked up on the wall the day before, and the session usually focused on one issue, ranging from major items like the kibbutz’s finances to whether, for instance, our small platoon of delivery drivers should be given pocket money to buy a sandwich or a coffee on their days outside the kibbutz or be limited to wrapping up bits of the modest fare on offer at breakfast time. That debate ended in a classic compromise: a little money, very little, so as to avoid violating the egalitarian ethos of the kibbutz.

But perhaps the aspect of life on the kibbutz most difficult for outsiders to understand, especially nowadays, is that we children were raised collectively. We lived in dormitories, organized by age group and overseen by a caregiver: in Hebrew, a metapelet, usually a woman in her twenties or thirties. For a few hours each afternoon and on the Jewish Sabbath, we were with our parents. Otherwise, we lived and learned in a world consisting almost entirely of other children.

Everything around us was geared toward making us feel like a band of brothers and sisters, as part of the wider collective. Until our teenage years, we weren’t even graded in school. And though we didn’t actually study how to till the land, some of my fondest early memories are of our “children’s farm”—the vegetables we grew, the goats we milked, the hens and chickens that gave us our first experience of how life was created. And the aroma always wafting from the stone ovens in the bakery at the heart of the kibbutz, where we could see the bare-chested young men producing loaf after loaf of bread, not just for Mishmar Hasharon but small towns and villages for miles around.

Until our teenage years, we lived in narrow, oblong homes, four of us to a room, unfurnished except for our beds, under which we placed our pair of shoes or sandals. At one end of the corridor was a set of shelves where we collected a clean set of underwear, pants, and socks each week. At the other end were the toilets—at that point, the only indoor toilets on the kibbutz, with real toilet seats rather than just holes in the ground. All of us showered together until the age of twelve. I can’t think of a single one of us who went on to marry someone from our own age group in the kibbutz—it would have seemed almost incestuous.

Mishmar Hasharon and other kibbutzim have long since abandoned the practice of collective child rearing. Some in my generation look back on the way we were raised not only with regret, but pain: a sense of parental absence, abandonment, or neglect. My own memories are more positive. The irony is that we probably spent more waking time with our parents than town or city children whose mothers and fathers worked nine-to-five jobs. The difference came at bedtime, or during the night. If you woke up unsettled, or ill, the only immediate prospect of comfort was from the metapelet or another of the kibbutz grown-ups who might be on overnight duty. Still, my childhood memories are overwhelmingly of feeling happy, safe, protected. I do remember waking up once, late on a stormy winter night when I was nine, in the grips of a terrible fever. I’d begun to hallucinate. I got to my feet and, without the thought of looking anywhere else for help, made my wobbly way through the rain to my parents’ room and fell into their bed. They hugged me. They dabbed my forehead with water. The next morning, my father wrapped me in a blanket and took me back to the children’s home.

To the extent that I was aware my childhood was different, I was given to understand it was special, that we were the beating heart of a Jewish state about to be born. I once asked my mother why other children got to live in their own apartments in places like Tel Aviv. “They are ironim,” she said. City-dwellers. Her tone made it clear they were to be viewed as a slightly lesser species.


EHUD BARAK served as Israel’s Prime Minister from 1999 to 2001. He was the leader of the Labor Party from 2007 until 2011, and Minister of Defense, first in Olmert’s and then in Netanyahu’s government from 2007 to 2013. Before entering politics, he was a key member of the Israeli military, occupying the position of Chief-of-Staff. Barak holds a B.Sc. in Physics and Math from the Hebrew University in Jerusalem and an M.Sc. degree from Stanford in Engineering-Economic Systems.

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Rare Glimpse of Early Medieval Ireland

This summer, the Library of the Trinity College in Dublin, exhibits its collection of more than 200 precious medieval and early modern manuscripts written in Irish.

The Long Room in the Library of the Tinity College in Dublin ©TCD
The Long Room in the Library of the Tinity College in Dublin ©TCD

Trinity College houses an invaluable collection of 200 manuscripts written in Irish (Gaeilge). Some of these manuscripts are on permanent display, like for instance the Book of Kells and the and Book of Arnagh. Both are singularly important witnesses to the early history of the green island. This summer a huge part of the library’s less famous collection will be on show in Dublin.

One example of this is the exhibition of the Book of Leinster (Leabhar na Núachongbhála), one of the most important manuscripts of the Early Irish period and the earliest manuscript in the Library’s collection written entirely in Irish. An anthology of prose, verse and genealogy, it provides a precious glimpse of the worldview and mode of life of the Old Irish People. Other significant manuscripts are later, but still, important witnesses to for instance the laws of the land as they were laid down in the 7thand 8thcenturies.

This is an exciting exhibition and well worth a visit if you are visiting Ireland and Dublin this summer.

However, Irish is not – as claimed on the official website – the oldest vernacular language in Europe, in which a formidable literature is preserved. This prize goes to Gothic and the writings from the 4thcentury as well as early Runic inscriptions in Germanic from the 1stcentury and onwards. In fact, the first significant texts in Irish are preserved in the Liber Ardmachanus (Book of Armagh) from the 9thcentury. Visitors would thus be well advised to take some of the nationalistic pride with a pinch of salt. The illuminated manuscripts, however, are astounding.

The exhibition, drawn from the world’s largest and most important collection of medieval Irish manuscripts, is being held to mark two decades of the college’s collaboration on a digitisation project with the Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies on the Irish Script on Screen (ISOS) – Irish Script on Screen  – In connection with this anniversary, Trinity College Dublin is hosting a conference and exhibition to celebrate its collection of 200 precious medieval and early modern manuscripts written in Irish. The collection ranks as one of the most important in the world.

The Irish Manuscripts in the Library of Trinity College exhibition at the Old Library (the Long Room) will run from May 17 until the end of June. The online exhibition with an introduction is well worth a visit.

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Dark Age Nunneries and Female Monasticism

Nunneries in the Carolingian and Ottonian World 800–1050 were vibrant and creative lifeworlds

Dark Age Nunneries. The Ambiguous Identity of Female Monasticism, 800–1050
By Steven Vanderputten
Ithaca, Cornell University Press 2018

In Dark Age Nunneries, Steven Vanderputten dismantles the common view of women religious between 800 and 1050 as disempowered or even disinterested witnesses to their own lives. It is based on a study of primary sources from forty female monastic communities in Lotharingia—a politically and culturally diverse region that boasted an extraordinarily high number of such institutions. Vanderputten highlights the attempts by women religious and their leaders, as well as the clerics and the laymen and -women sympathetic to their cause, to construct localized narratives of self, preserve or expand their agency as religious communities, and remain involved in shaping the attitudes and behaviors of the laity amid changing contexts and expectations on the part of the Church and secular authorities.

Rather than a « dark age » in which female monasticism withered under such factors as the assertion of male religious authority, the secularization of its institutions, and the precipitous decline of their intellectual and spiritual life, Vanderputten finds that the post-Carolingian period witnessed a remarkable adaptability among these women. Through texts, objects, archaeological remains, and iconography, Dark Age Nunneries offers scholars of religion, medieval history, and gender studies new ways to understand the experience of women of faith within the Church and across society during this era.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Steven Vanderputten is Professor in the History of the Early and Central Middle Ages at Ghent University. He is the author of Monastic Reform as Process: Realities and Representations in Medieval Flanders, 900–1100 and Imagining Religious Leadership in the Middle Ages: Richard of Saint-Vanne and the Politics of Reform, both from Cornell University Press.

 

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Macht & Mythos in Sachsen-Anhalt 2018

This year the Romanesque Route in Sachsen-Anhalt celebrates its 25th anniversary. In connection with the celebrations, three exhibitions have been organised. Also, a new Cathedral Museum in Magdeburg is scheduled to open its doors this autumn.

Germany in the 10th century was a European superpower. From the ranks of the ruling dynasties – the Ottonians and Salians – a number of remarkable kings and emperors were seen to take the mantle form the Carolingians. Albeit based on the exploitation of the new-found silver mines near Goslar, the heartland for the itinerant royals was the lush and rich agrarian landscape on the corridors through which the River Elbe and its tributaries flow. To the south, winegrowing is a thousand -year old tradition. To experience this landscape a cultural route was marked out in the landscape of Sachsen-Anhalt in 1993, The Romanesque Route. Celebrating its 25th year anniversary in 2018, three exhibitions and one new museum are scheduled to open up the region for cultural tourists and not least medievalists.

Memleben – Wissen & Macht

Wissen und Macht coverArchaeological excavations in the 20thcentury have demonstrated that the grand ideas behind the construction of a special memorial shrine for the Ottonian dynasty at Memleben foundered. Apart from the innards of Otto I (the Great), the Ottonians were buried elsewhere. And the plans hatched by Otto II and his queen Theophanu fell to the earth when he died in Italy and she had to scramble to secure the reign of her under-age son. Also, soon after the foundation of the Benedictine monastery, they had orchestrated as part of the building programme, was attacked in a Slavic uprising. Today, the magnificent cathedral in Memleben can only be traced through the ground plan as it is marked in the landscape.

In the now-defunct monastery, a local museum tells the story about the place. This year, a special exhibition aims to shed light on the main protagonists of the story – The emperor, Otto II, the queen, Theophanu, Benedikt of Nursia and the Benedictines and the eremite Heimerad. By circling their life-world, visitors get a glimpse of what it meant to live in the 10thcentury in a world marked out by palaces, bishoprics, and monasteries. This was a sacral landscape bent on emphasizing the sacred nature of the royal power, commitments and entitlements (so-called Sakalkönigstum).

Merseburg – Thietmar’s Welt

Thietmar of Merseburg (975 – 18) bishop of Merseburg 1009 – 1018, was an idiosyncratic chronicler providing his readers with countless juicy details and descriptions of the lifeworlds of people in the 10thand 11thcenturies. As next of kin to the ruling elite of Saxony, not least the royal family, he was abreast of all that happened in his lifetime as well as the period leading up to the events around the millennium. Without his chronicle, the world of the Ottonians would definitely lose their lustre. No wonder, German medievalists have literally “plundered” his text for insight into the mentality of people living at the millennial turn.

This year, a special exhibition is planned in Merseburg to celebrate his life-world. The exhibition opens to the public in July and as yet details are not available. According to the early presentation, though, the exhibition promises to help visitors visualise and sense life as he and his protagonists experienced it.

Saale-Anstrut – The World of the Monasteries

The south corner of Sachsen-Anhalt falls between two tributaries to the river Elbe, the Saale and the Unstrut. The corridors around the riverbanks provided a lush and rich agrarian landscape. No wonder, the Ottonians sought to develop the region through founding monasteries and bishoprics, which might function as well-equipped stepping stones on their itinerant schedules.

This year, a series of the more prominent monasteries in the Saale-Unstrut region have teamed up to shed light on their medieval heritage. Read more about the programme here

Dommuseum Ottonianum Magdeburg

Autumn 2018 a brand new cathedral museum in Magdeburg is scheduled to open its doors. The new museum will be housed in the former Reichsbank from 1924, which is located next to the cathedral in Magdeburg. With 650 m2 the intention is to focus on Otto the Great (912-973) and his queen, Editha (910 -946), both buried in the Cathedral. Another important part will be played by the finds from the recent archaeological excavations in and around the cathedral. On show will be the fragments of the sumptuous textiles, the queen was buried with as well as the results from the extensive studies of her remains and her interment. Other exhibits are provided from the tomb of Archbishops Wichmann von Seeburg (1115-1192) and Otto von Hesse (1301-1361). Currently, a virtual interactive reconstruction of the first Gothic Cathedral begun in 1207 on German soil is under preparation.

VISIT:

Memleben – Wissen & Macht

Kloster und Kaiserpfalz Memleben
Thomas-Müntzer-Str. 48
D-06642 Memleben
Germany

Merseburg – Thietmar’s Welt

Merseburger Dom
Domplatz 7
06217 Merseburg

Saale-Anstrut – The World of the Monasteries

Kloster und Kaiserpfalz Memleben
Thomas-Müntzer-Str. 48
D-06642 Memleben
Germany

Dommuseum Ottonianum Magdeburg

Am Dom 1
39104 Magdeburg
Germany

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